valve regulated lead acid battery Bring a Lead-Acid Battery Back From the Dead

In all the old time battery designs, lead-
Acid is the most widely used one at present.
Its energy density (Watt-
Hours per kilogram) and low cost make them extensive.
Like any kind of battery, it is based on an electrochemical reaction: the interaction between different chemicals, essentially, this interaction produces redundant electrons on one side and on the other.
This difference ("potential") is the voltage, and the current flows when the electrons cycle around the circuit to fill this defect.
With the elimination of differences, the amount of electricity available in the battery will decrease.
The key to a rechargeable battery is that this reaction is reversible because applying current to the battery (instead of pulling it out of the battery) will resume charging.
Other electrochemical reactions may result in higher energy density at the expense of no charge.
The voltage generated by each reaction is more or less fixed (slightly different depending on the percentage of charge ). Lead-Acid is 2 volts.
For example, a nickel-based recharge is 1. 2 or 1.
4 v, lithium battery is 3. 7v.
Because of this, if you want a 12 v battery, you need to connect these reactions in series to increase the voltage.
Each is called a cell.
As you can see in the picture, 12 v lead-
Acid consists of 6 cells.
12 v, 6 v, 8 v or even single-
2 v batteries are common.
Next I will explain the way ahead
Acid batteries can be built so you can determine what needs to be done for your specific batteries.
These batteries have three main components.
Yes, it's lead and acid.
Specifically, the solution of sulfuric acid, lead plate and oxidized lead plate.
The lead plate is negative.
Due to the "lack" of electrons (electrons have negative charges) of oxygen atoms bound to lead, it is "less negative" = positive.
Sulfuric acid dissolved in water is called electrolyte, carrying electrons into and out of these plates, releasing electrons after reacting with lead.
The number, thickness and size of the plates may vary, as well as the way the electrolyte is maintained.
Motivation and depth
The different uses of these batteries mean different sizes of the plates.
Starting the battery is something you often use in a petrol car.
Their main task is to provide a large current in a short period of time in order to turn the motor that starts the engine.
Their normal use will not release too much-
Just a big and short drop in fast charging.
The AC generator in the car keeps the battery charged while running the lights, sound, ECU and all other electronic devices.
Deep-cycle batteries, on the other hand, are designed to handle slow but rather large discharges.
They may not be able to provide so many "Fists" on a whim (Ie.
But more can be discharged before causing damage.
These are the things you find on UPSs, solar systems, emergency lights, and many electric cars like forklifts, golf carts, some delivery trucks, early and DIY electric cars and kids riding --on toys.
The difference between submerged and sealed batteries stems from the way the electrolyte is kept in the battery.
The plate needs to be surrounded by a sulfuric acid solution so that a reaction can occur.
The easiest way to achieve this is to immerse the plate in a liquid solution.
You see, the battery is in the water.
The flooded battery can be either a starter (most car batteries) or a deep cycle battery (for example, a forklift or golf cart battery) a big advantage is that, because you lose a little bit of water when charging (more later), you can charge faster because you can lose more water and turn it off every once in a while.
A big drawback is that it can only be installed horizontally.
Sealing or maintenance-
The free "battery has a glass fiber between the plates ---
Absorbing glass mats or AGM is also another name for these mats.
The fiberglass absorbs the solution and keeps it in contact with the two plates, while preventing them from contact and short circuit when the battery is damaged.
This means that they can also be installed at an angle where more abuse can occur before overflowing or causing trouble.
Release hydrogen, lead due to charging reaction
Acid batteries need ventilation so they can drain excess gas.
The sealed battery has a valve to control the release, which leads to another name for the sealed battery: VRLAregulated lead-
The other is gel cells, which have a concentrate in the solution, so combine some of the benefits of the first two.
I have not encountered these, but in principle it can be restored in the same way, although some vibration may be required.
These are common in starter classes as high-performance car batteries.
Now that we have looked at how the batteries work and how they are constructed, it will be easier to explain how they may fail.
These are the two main ways they can't keep the charge: the chemical tendency of the sulfur problem will notice that when sulfuric acid deposits electrons on the other side, the sulfur atom has to go somewhere, so it forms lead sulfate on the top of the lead plate.
In theory, this is the opposite when charging, but in fact, 100% of the sulfur will not happen.
Crystals can be formed or glued to copper, reducing its active surface area (sulfuric acid), or dropping to the bottom, carrying some lead, leaving pits (pits or corrosion) on the plate ), and reduce the amount of sulfuric acid available in the solution.
With charging and discharging cycles, a certain amount of sulfuric acid is inevitable and is the main way for the battery to age and not be available.
Improper charging and discharge (too fast or too deep) can lead to this situation too early.
The problem with water sulfuric acid is only a small part of the liquid inside the battery, about 25%.
Therefore, it needs to be dissolved in the water so that it can reach the entire area of the plate.
Due to their different boiling points, water can evaporate and separate from the mixture, reduce its volume and effectively "dry" the battery.
This is more common in batteries that do not cycle frequently, but it occurs due to environmental factors. Is it dead?
In both cases, the voltage on the battery terminals will be very low (only a few mV ).
The resistance will be high too, but don't measure this with the Ohm mode of the multimeter!
This means that it only allows a very small amount of current to cycle through it, just like a large resistor.
You can see that this ties your ammeter in series between the battery and the charger, where you can only measure a small current (a few milliamperes ).
For example, the battery I use is too short of water.
Bought 10 years ago is new, never used.
All the water evaporated so the electrons could not move around.
This method may not work well if your battery is already sulfuric acid.
It can't produce any results, it can only produce limited results.
First, the battery capacity may be smaller.
I have read that high currents can be used to force lead sulfate crystals to dissolve the sulfur back into the solution and separate it from the plate, but I have never tried it.
The current involved is 100-
200 A (yes, the whole AMP!
) Range, so generally using a welder (they emit low volts at high amps) I will focus on sealing the battery in the next steps, just like the one I'm recycling, my battery should be turned on and there will be a sign of where you can pry it off
They should also be refilled, so it should work well if you see it dry.
On the other hand, it is not intended to open the sealed battery.
But we don't mind so much.
You may notice a slot around the lid.
These are actually vents from excess hydrogen.
You can use these points to pry the lid open with a small flat head screwdriver.
While it may feel like it has a clip, the lid is actually stuck in a few places.
Now you can see the 6 valves that make up 6 batteries of this battery.
To see the inside, let's take them off, but be careful: Light in the hole of the valve, see the battery, you can enjoy lead, lead oxide and fiberglass mats.
It would be great if everything looked dry!
Adding some water will restore your battery life.
At least one thing. So read on.
Remember: if you can see the liquid clearly, but there are only a few mV on the terminal, this method will not work for you.
Your battery may be sulfuric acid.
Insert the wire into the adjacent unit with a multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance.
This is for shorts.
Check the voltage first and you should get up to a few millivolts.
If the measurement seems to be zero volts, or too close to it, measure the resistance.
A very low value indicates that a unit is short-circuited, that is, the plate opposite is in contact.
I don't recommend restoring these because the charging voltage will be lower (you will have fewer batteries charged) and the normal charger will damage other batteries.
If you know what you're doing and are able to manage the voltage for your disabled battery, go ahead and give it a chance to live anyway.
If not, keep in mind that these batteries are 95% recyclable.
Contrary to popular knowledge, pure H2O is actually non-conductive.
Tap water will conduct electricity because of the impurities dissolved in it.
Sodium and other minerals present in it form salts that carry electrons.
Since the reaction in our batteries depends on the sulfuric acid carrying electrons, it is very important that there is no other charge
The water we add contains molecules.
Into distilled water!
All impurities in this water are chemically separated.
It can be found in many supermarkets.
Because tap water contains calcium and can block their small internal pipes, it is common in clothes irons.
In addition, injected water is treated in a sterile manner after distillation.
This is not necessary, but since it is available in pharmacies, it will be easier and as cheap for many people (like me) to find it.
At a critical moment, or afterwards
Doomsday Survival scenario (how did you read this article?
) The rain is also very effective because it is naturally distilled (evaporated into a cloud ).
Please allow me to repeat: distilled water!
The larger the battery, the more water it holds, because the larger the battery;
I hold 12AH about 30 ml per unit (month ounce? ).
It's good to use a grading container or syringe, so the amount of water you put into each cell is equal.
Pour the right amount of water into the first battery with the help of a funnel or syringe, waiting for the mat to absorb (unless your battery is flooded, it has no mat ), and fill right below the top of the plate.
As the mat absorbs the solution, some water is separated (electrolytic) and the water level may change after several charges.
Fill the rest of the cells with the same number.
Pay attention to capillary phenomenon!
When the fat drops stick to the wall of the valve hole, the cells may appear full.
A cotton swab or some tap should make the opening free again.
All cells should consume more or less the same amount of water.
The first charge will be "activate the charge" and we are restarting the reaction.
At this stage, the current entering the battery will be very low.
It will accelerate and charge at normal speed in a cycle of 2nd or 3rd.
It is important to close the lid and/or the first charge of the valve so that it is inevitable that too much solution will overflow in the battery.
This will come in the form of hydrogen, so it's also important to ventilate the area to avoid an explosion!
To do the first charge, connect the battery in series with the charger.
To do this, we need to measure the current.
You can also use the adjustable power supply at any time.
It must have voltage control, while the current limit is useful but not necessary.
Check if there is a charging current limit on the battery label.
If there is a current limit on your power supply, I would suggest setting it to about 80%.
If your battery does not have a specified limit or if the label has worn out, treat the limit as 40% of the rated capacity.
Set the voltage to 14.
Start with 4 volts.
This is the standard charging voltage of 12 V.
The initial current will be small.
If your power supply is capable, you can increase the voltage to speed up the reaction.
Many Chargers with "recovery mode" do this.
For 12 v batteries, as long as the voltage is lowered when the battery starts to accept higher and higher current, it can safely reach 60 v.
The current limit on the power supply will continuously reduce your voltage.
If you can't be 14 years old
4 v (for example, if you are using a dedicated charger), please continue to check the current.
It will only increase slowly at first, and then faster and faster until it starts to fall.
Congrats, this is a normal charge!
Photos show this growththen-
Reduced current!
When the current reaches about 0.
03 times the battery capacity, has been charged to 90-
As mentioned, the water level may change at 95% (unless your battery is flooded and then the lid is opened.
If you have time, charge and discharge the battery several times (connect the bulb, motor or other load that can be discharged quickly) to bring the solution to a stable level.
Cleaning and drying of valves and valve posts.
Re-open the valve, stick the lid to it, look for the place to stick to it, and use a drop of acrylic glue on each.
Put the weight on it for a while and let it dry.
Your battery is ready, but it has been resurrected from the dead, so it can be understood that it may behave strangely.
Depending on the cause and extent of the damage, the capacity may be reduced.
My abilities seem to be barely affected and others can only provide 20% of their previous abilities.
They may well have excess water. This is okay.
Just remember to charge in a ventilated, flame-free area and occasionally leak.
I put the salt bottle with baking soda nearby.