It's easy to replace the laptop battery.
But you only have the old battery left, just begging for attention.
This is the potential that the 4-core Lipo battery has not yet been developed.
This is not good enough for my laptop, but still available.
At the same time, there are these basic charging cables that pile up at the bottom of the backpack along with the power supply.
So, use the old laptop battery to solve the problem of cable TV chaos? Why not?
The solution is this neat Power Bank (
Some adjustments may be needed for this name)
The result is lovely, simple and useful, bringing order to your life, which is a clear victory in my book.
Along this simple visible you can make one for you.
This structure is also the new one (to me)2s USB charger.
I have a big plan for the future.
Follow me on Instagram @ medanivin @ dosimplecarbon to learn more frequent, cooler things. Thank you. 1.
First of all, you need a battery.
Ideally, it comes from ultrabook (
My name is XPS 13)
So it's flat and has a good shape.
But the instruction is valid for either (at least)Lithium cells. 2. 2s USB charger.
I like this thing so far.
It plugs into the USB port (5v)
And charge 2 lithium batteries in series (8. 4v max)
It's a kind of magic. only 2 people are yours. 42$. 3.
USB charging port with step down module.
It can provide 3A so it can charge quickly. Or here. 4. Storage pouch.
Take a look at the internal dimensions in the link and use something that fits the battery. 5. Heat shrink.
I will repeat my suggestion to supply this package for a long time.
Worth every penny. 6. 2s BMS unit. Or here.
It is responsible for preventing the battery from overcharging and discharging, which is a very small and important thing.
Some other cables and tape (
Suitable for battery and electronics)
But any office Scotch whisky is OK.
Standard tools are also needed: soldering iron, hand tools, hot glue guns.
The multimeter comes in handy (
I saved me countless times with this small unit).
For a very small part, you will also need to access the 3d printer.
Bring your battery and remove the packing material.
Be careful, you don't want to pierce the aluminum wall of the battery.
Lift the tip with a sharp tool knife and walk slowly from there.
A little slower, the aluminum wall of the actual battery can fall off with the plastic packaging.
Once the units are exposed, loosen them from the supporting pcb and wiring with the cutter.
In this way, only cells are needed for the rest of this structure.
My battery consists of 4 separate batteries.
For the power supply group, you only need the voltage of 2 batteries-
2 cells in series or short 2 s.
So we will use the second pair of power groups to increase the capacity of the power groups and connect them in parallel.
In my case, this is two larger, two smaller cells.
Take 1 large and 1 small cell and pack each pair together.
Ensure lead alignment: with and-with -.
This is called a parallel connection to 2 cells, or referred to as 2 p.
Once packed, weld the label together and add the lead to the label.
The best color here. . .
I only have red ones, so I added a short black shrink to distinguish.
Now you have two batteries, each of which is made in parallel by two batteries.
Now it's time to make a larger package from the previously made 2 p package.
Two cells are stacked together, but this time-to + alignment.
One side of the wire and-together (
From different cells).
The other pair is yours.
Output of the entire battery.
It's BMS now.
Short for battery management system.
A strange name to say that this tiny pcb can prevent excessive discharge and overcharging of the battery.
You really want to do this for lithium batteries.
Now, the interesting part-
Wiring together.
Look at the photos: 1.
Welding combination /-to BM spot. 2.
B 3 welding battery output.
Welding battery output-to B-4. Add wire lead (
Make it longer than it takes)to B+/--
This will be the input of the charger. 5.
Add wire leads to P/-(also longer)-
This will be the output of the USB port. 6.
Narrow everything down and stick to the package.
Make sure you remember all the clues properly! !
Yes, you need to insert shrinkage before welding all sides. . .
Otherwise, you need
Weld again and insert shrink and Weld (
How do I know? . .
Or just look at the picture. . . )
The end of the charger unit has these huge female plugs.
You don't want them.
Just clip them out.
Now weld the charger board to B /-
Clues you did before.
It's also a good point to plug it into the ad to see if it's charging and if everything is connected the way it should be.
Now you should have a battery pack, a charger with welding and shrinking, and an output lead with nothing at the other end (for now)
Make a dry installation for everything in the box.
Make sure the charger lead folds as it should.
See where you want your output to go.
Print something USB, simple PLA is OK.
Put it on the box.
It is designed to cross the side curve.
When you are satisfied with the result, cut off its hole and put it in place with hot glue.
The first thing. De-
Solder LED from this pcb.
It will be permanently connected and you don't want anything to run out of battery.
Next, check the location to see how long you like the wires.
Weld the wire to the appropriate label on the pcb.
Slide it into something printed in 3D and fix it with hot glue.
I have put a few cables for daily use (Micro usb for UsbC. . . )
Put it in the mesh pocket in the box.
It's a small space so be sure not to put it aside.
Basically use shorter cables. That's it.
Charge whatever you want via USB output HDD.
Once empty, turn on and use the charger to charge the internal battery.
On Instagram @ medanivin @ dosimplecarbon, Daniel follows me and enjoys something more frequent and cooler. Thank you.