solar power station - gel type battery
Similar to many projects on structures, I want to create a solar charging system for gadgets that have many battery operations.
In addition, one goal is to eliminate
The need for multiple wall warts and associated charging leads and accessories was disrupted.
The result is a station located in a central location, and in order to make it look like a reasonable piece of furniture, consistent with its location in the center of the House, some efforts have been made.
Main requirements for mobile phone recharge (micro USB)
Charge any USB device using a USB charging function such as an ipad/ipodarge battery for overnight charging (
When the sun is not bright! )
Convenient to use, beautiful appearance.
This version is not cheap, but many of the components I have tried or tried in previous projects.
This is basically to put them in a neat package.
Although all the circuits you need to connect are 12VDC and (
So classified as ultra low voltage)
You can work on such a project without an electrical permit.
However, I would like to point out the following considerations: 1)
Lead-acid batteries store a lot of energy and can cause problems if you miss positive electricity (Red)and -Negative(Black)terminals.
Be very careful when connecting the terminals to the battery.
It is very easy to accidentally short the terminals --
I know that many years ago, when I was doing a car
Sudden blue flash and melted battery post! 2)
The battery that is charging/discharging can warm/heat-
Make sure your project has enough "breathing" space to compensate for this.
In this case, considering that the maximum output of the solar charger is 10 Am ps, the battery can handle the initial charge of 30 amps, and it is unlikely to produce any obvious heat. 3)
This project uses sealed gel lead-acid batteries, which should be kept sealed in general.
If you use a submerged battery, be aware that it produces hydrogen during the charging cycle.
Make sure your project is not in an unventilated area.
I am trying to make this project possible for typical DIY people.
The higher your skill and patience, the better the result.
Most projects connect the purchased components together.
This is a fairly simple DC circuit wiring.
The woodworking skills of the box are direct and do not require outside tools to make.
Tools for the box: Saw-
Will DorseyJigsaw (
Square cut in the box).
The chisel may be another option here, but it will take a while to use longerDrill and a set of drill screwdriver and pencil to mark the outPaint roller and brush for wiring: soldering iron
Only a few joints are needed.
Wire cutting/stripping machines and shovel terminals for wire terminals
For cable clipsI, it was decided to purchase the 12VDC 100Ah lead-acid gel battery, which was built specifically for solar use.
This is the most expensive one, will give 3-
Use 4 days if we have cloudy weather.
In Sydney, Australia, we are blessed with good sunshine.
Your choice of batteries and solar panels needs to match your use, which is not difficult to calculate, but the usage of each person is different.
The battery is heavy from a more practical point of view and I just gave myself a hernia to move it around, something bigger and it starts to turn into an effort for two people.
The spec sheet is here, and the panel is an example of a previous project that is large enough for the system to function properly.
It was bought a few years ago and I think it was about 130-
150 watts at full speed.
The unit is mounted on a single-storey roof facing the North (
Best Direction in the southern hemisphere).
I connected to the recessed wall with a solar cable and I used the EP solar charger and the display table.
The package was purchased on E-
But here is the website: select this controller because: 1)
It is a type of maximum power tracking that can maximize charging efficiency
It has a load switching function that can be turned on at dusk or before dawn-
I use this to power a small piece of led 's3)
The charger has a related display meter that displays many key parameters.
However, there are other controllers with similar specifications-
So you can make a choice.
Here are 2 small power supplies suitable for setting up USB charging.
One is Jaycar's switch mode power supply kit.
The other is based on the LM317 of bough on Ebay.
Here is the link.
Do the work, but the Jaycar version is "modern way", while the LM317 goes back to the original design that was completed in 70 years.
I put these things around again so decided to use them at the same time.
Each power supply can charge several devices at the same time (@100ma each).
Note of interest: the switching mode power supply is great where efficiency and cheaper components are key, but where very low noise or ripple is needed, the linear regulator is better (
For EMI sensitive devices).
Both of these jobs are very good here.
This is a variable voltage power supply for the laptop.
I bought it a while ago and the closest I can find on the Jaycar website is: it has a range of plugs that should fit most laptops.
There are other options on the network.
My settings are 20VDC and a plug is installed for my aging ThinkPad.
Note after construction: This project seems to get quite warm in use (~40-45DegC)-
Give it some breathing space!
There is another part that was bought a while ago and has been tried before.
300 W, it is not big enough to run many household appliances, but it is good enough to run smaller products such as TV.
In Sydney, we experience several power outages every year (
Hit the ground power line due to thunderstorms).
Small semi-portable (
Casters in the box)
In this case, the 240 v ac power supply should be useful.
The only house on the street with lights on!
Here is the link: I don't have this inverter grounded, so it should only be used with dual insulated devices (
Device with 2 pins on the plug).
The wall panel has a professional look and the 12VDC "cigarette" power connector is shown above.
The 4-Way board is a std wall panel for the keystone plug-in, which itself is for a USB socket (
Not shown on the photo)
These are: brush the wall board (2 required -
One on the back and one on the box cover)
: 12VDC socket is: Box-
Please put all your circuits
The 12 v battery can provide a current that can easily damage the device. fuses -
Used to fuse the main battery with the inverter lead and the battery with the solar charger line, which is not why I use different leads --
That's what I was in the garage.
White LED stripI left a length from the 5 m reel purchased on E-Bay -
It has a self-adhesive backing.
Plastic boxes for internal storage these two boxes come from the world of luxury stores
The Cadi can stack the organization basket and the large plf024. www. hswgroup.
Party members 1)
Wood glue and screws for Box2)
Wire black and red for DC circuit-
In addition to the battery to the inverter, I used the 15A car and I used the cable that came with the inverter (30Amp I think)3)
Shovel terminal month)Cable clips5)USB cables -
Cut and use in Box 6)
25x25mm aluminum corner-
Basket rack bracket-
This is an afterthought, and if I make another box, I will use wooden sticks before drawing. My apologies is that I did not take any pictures of the basic structure of the box.
Hope these photos are enough to guide you through building your box.
In order to facilitate the construction of the box, I used pine shipping from the local hardware store (
Mainly for shelves).
I took full advantage of the width of 405mm and therefore reduced the number of sawing I had to do.
The basic size is: nominal size (
Dimensions including caster skirting and lid)
740mm wide 415mm deep 395mm high do not use the nominal size for the building, they are just to help you understand if it is suitable for the location of your proposed power station.
Inside the Box: 665mm long x 345mm wide 405mm high (
Width of board)
Cover 735mm long x 405mm wide x 19mm thick (
Thickness of pine board used)
The size of the box depends to a certain extent on what is included in (
That is, the battery in this case).
If you decide to size your own box, I urge you to make sure you have enough space --
Once you start assembling a project like this, it can make things very frustrating if you have a tight space and it's hard to maintain or improve.
In this case, "big" is a good thing.
Parts required to make the box: Cover (1)
735mm x 405 before and after (2)
700mm x 405 (2)
345mm x 405 base 700mm x 383mm (
The base needs to be cut along the long side of the plate to reduce the width of 405 to 383)
After cutting, the parts are glued together and screwed together.
3 screws under each corner.
Leave the box overnight so that the glue is cured and the complete casters mounted on the base
As a component, the finished product is very heavy.
You will regret not installing them if you decide not to install them!
HingesFit hinge, then remove the lid to prepare for the painting and finishing of batteryAdd 3 short wooden strips, which are located on the left side of the box.
This is to make sure there is air gap around the battery.
The strips are about 5mm thick.
The Batten of the LED strip installed a section of pine tree shape for the LED strip and decided to color my box --
I filled the hole with woodworking filler and then sanded it with sandpaper.
After polishing, I installed the skirting that was ready.
Bypassing the finish at the bottom of the box makes the box look like a small storage room or blanket box.
I installed the skirting with the panel pin and the wood glue.
The left hand side needs to be cut on the skirting line to accommodate a 240 V inverter using a combination seal, primer, and bottom coating.
Only one coat is needed.
The box was painted inside and outside.
I have some wall paint left over from an old renovation project.
A bit white, or should I say "pig bri", as it was said on the can.
2 coats are required.
To improve the appearance of the finished Power Station, apply a layer of paint on the bright white panel.
Simply rub the panel with some fine sandpaper to provide a key for the paint. Future Considerations. . .
I plan to do some finishing work outside the box.
Look at this space.
My artistic ability is very limited, so it will be drawn if the idea doesn't look good!
Place the battery in the position on the left hand side of the box.
This guy is heavy!
Please pay attention to the air gap around the battery.
Connect the LED light strip to the light strip.
The LED is facing up on the front so that the lights can "wash" the wall behind the power station.
Insert a 2-wire cable through a small hole in the box.
Weld VE and-
On the LED light bar. (
Which is the LED light strip should show-VE and +VE).
Install the brush wall panel, 4 way keystone wall panel and 12VDC socket at the right end with the cut close to the inverter end.
Slide the inverter into the position and screw it to the end of the seat.
The two screws behind are enough.
Install the 5VDC power supply to charge all USB devices.
I screw directly to the bottom of the box with a spare computer.
Install the charger to the back inside the power station box.
I also terminated the LED light bar at this stage.
It is connected to the load terminal on the right side of the solar charger.
Install the fuse box in a convenient location.
We will fuse each of the four circuits separately. 1)
For 5 v power supply 12)
For 5 v power supply 23)
Laptop Power 4)
For 12VDC sockets, this can't be fixed in position, so I just put cable clips on the input and output leads.
The output lead will pass through the brush wall plate on the cover of the power station.
Start wiring components.
For the main battery of the charger and the battery of the power supply, I used an online fuse like this: The front is red and the negative is black.
Keep the wiring as tidy as possible and help with this using cable clips.
Use a solar cable of about 1 m to connect the embedded socket to the right terminal of the solar charger.
Pass the cable through the brush wall plate behind the box.
The spare cables are neatly stored under the box, allowing the box to be about 50mm away from the wall.
The cable from the battery to the solar charger can now be done as well.
These terminate the central connection on the solar charger.
At this stage, the fuse is excluded from the circuit. Temporarily (and one by one)
Add a fuse to the circuit and test and set the 5VDC of the USB charger.
There is a potentiometer on each board to adjust the voltage.
Remove the fuse and proceed.
The process should be done on the bench, but it is a good idea to test again.
Also take this opportunity to test the laptop power supply of the Cigarette12VDC socket and 240 V inverter.
Make sure this step is correct, that is, the polarity of the USB wire)-
I don't want you to damage your phone/ipod etc!
Use a few unused USB cables (
I'm sure you have it at home! )
Cut the cable about 150mm long.
Peel and expose the external cable.
Cut off the green and white
These are data lines that do not require charging.
Terminate the red and black wires to the corresponding terminals on the 5 v power supply.
At my power station, I connect one of the 5 v power supplies to multiple
I'm from e-
Bay and another to two USB outlets on the back of the box. The multi-
The headset cable is connected to the USB extension cable (
USB socket with female Type-see photo)
Ebay link: 2 USB connections have been disconnected.
Further USB charging note: it is true that the current device may use digital recognition to allow a higher charging current, however, in this case the charging is basically "dumb ", each device should default to 100 mA of the device.
This means that the charging speed may be slower when it is connected to a dedicated charger or computer.
However, I don't think this is a problem --
It's good to realize this.
For more information and further education from you, see Wiki here!
Install the brush wall panel and solar charger meter on the cover.
Modify the lid using hinges.
Connect the meter to the charger with the supplied cable.
At the end of the Assembly, I decided to install several plastic pallets.
The idea is that you will have a lot of USB leads, warts on the wall, instructions
Basically, need a home and a lot of utensils that you can get to without searching for the location of the whole house!
I installed a few 25x25mm angle aluminum on the right side of the box.
They are 170mm from the top of the box.
This is to accommodate two plastic pallets in the Howard storage world. -
If you can't get these, I'm sure you can find another option.
Reinstall the fuse one by one and check if each fuse works as you expected.
I used 10A fuse for solar charger, used 5A for every use in V DC power supply for 240 V inverterI, 12VDC socket for cigarettes and ChargerI for laptop hope you enjoyed my 1st instructions.
Comments are welcome.
The charger has been programmed (
Through the instrument button)for the load (LED strip)
Illuminate 3 hours after dusk and 3 hours before dawn.
The controller does not need to be adjusted for this because when dawn and dusk, it constantly "learns" by monitoring the solar panel voltage"
I like this feature. Questions?
Ideas for improvement?
How is your building going?
Comments are welcome.
Here's an update on the EP solar remote display.
Note about the display of charge status SOCI notes that when the sun shines, the display shows 100% and then drops about 20% when the sun falls behind the cloud, but there is no charge. I e-
Mail the manufacturer with the following questions.
Dear SirsI installed the Tracer 1210RN and meter system and have questions about the SOC reading.
When the sun shines, the meter will charge the battery to 100%, no problem.
Later in the afternoon (
When the battery is not loaded)
SOC dropped rapidly to 60%.
I have checked the battery voltage (12V GEL type)
It still shows 12.
76 V, which indicates that the "real" SOC is about 85-90%.
It seems that the meter uses a higher charging voltage as a number of 100% instead of 12.
85 V what should be for this type of battery.
Can you comment?
"It is commendable that they replied to the spreadsheet attachment I attached here. The e-
The Mail is as follows: = = = Hello, first of all, the battery capacity is determined according to its voltage.
When the voltage is over 13, it should display 100% on the meter display. 6V.
Therefore, since the voltage is 12, it shows 50% on the meter display. 8V.
And the details in the attachment.
I don't know how to understand this information.
The meter is executed according to the attached algorithm, but I don't understand why the meter seems to measure the charging voltage, not the open voltage?
Maybe the circuit inside the meter can't do this?
In any case, this is beyond my expertise and cannot be understood further.
Is there a battery charging expert?
With the help of my sister and a pack of Martha Stewart templates, we added a touch of color and unity to the plain beige box!
A mixture of foam rollers and Ester paint is used by Martha Stewart Ferns (
One green and one brown)-
I got these materials from a local artist shop.
The technique is to place the fern layer on the first dark layer of the background.
Next is a slightly lighter color, followed by the last layer of light of ferns in the foreground. Have fun!