junk battery - 2.65v rechargable aluminum-ion - high drain battery

Safety first: This project is not for timid people.
Wear goggles and gloves.
For more details, see my previous note that the goal of the last four years has been to create a "good enough" battery for billions of people living in "light poverty --1. 2-1.
Once the sun sets, there is no reliable light source for 7 billion people. Billions.
So I decided that I couldn't help to create better LEDs and help people make their own storage batteries.
The first requirement is that the battery is cheap and easy to manufacture.
This must be an improvement in lead toxicity
Sour, but probably as big as what I want to do.
You can see some of my other structures as steps for this development.
I created a great 2. 65v Aluminum-
Due to the accidental discovery of ion batteries when exploring geological polymers-
Electrode for another battery.
Al-Si protected aluminum does not break down in the electrolyte and allows the battery to work properly.
I'm not sure 100% about the "final chemistry" of the cells, so I can't build one at 2.
Start with 65, but the current cell (starting at 1. 3-1. 43 volts)
Can be conditioned into 2.
65 v battery for about 15 cycles.
My "master" cells are still being regulated, so I'm not sure what the life cycle is at this point. . .
But this is the best cell I 've built in four years of work and I want to make sure it's ready. Goals:0. Abundance -
Batteries should take advantage of the abundant natural resources and remain within the elements of the top 10 or the top 12. (
O, Si, Al, Fe, Ca, Na, K, Mg, Ti, H and possible P, Mn)1. A simple-to-
Make batteries that can be built under original conditions.
It should be easy to build with recyclable/recycled material "garbage" 3.
It should provide enough power to light up the LED lighting system at night.
It should be recharged.
It should be easily deconstructed, "served" or recycled once it fails. 6. Open Source-
The "recipe" will be provided to anyone for free.
Acceptable TradeOffs:0.
Carbon, because it is difficult to make a cell without it, and it is usually accessible.
The same is true of sulfur, as consumers are usually exposed to sulfur (
Battery acid is a common thing). 1. Size -
I don't care if it takes up the size of the chair, which is equivalent to 5 times the size of lead acid. Voltage -
I don't worry about low voltage batteries if I can stack a few together. Graphite -
Although not ideal for the original situation, it can be easily recovered from the dead main battery.
Time of arrival conditions
By repeating the charge/discharge cycle, it may take a while for the battery to reach a useful state. "Outgassing" -
Although this is a serious negative impact, it is understood that some gas release may occur during the adjustment process.
Gas like chlorine may need batteries to be stored outside. 6.
Boost converter-
Our goal is to create light, not to worry about continuous voltage.
So the pulse boost converter is acceptable ("Jiao er thief ")
Get the lower voltage of the pulse signal that can light up the LED.
I use this method to drive the "30 W" LEDs below 2 W.
My original battery is actually a "variant: scrap aluminum tube and graphite rod" behind this manual ".
This is my first attempt at a flat unit.
Here's the list of ingredients, the structure, and the theory behind what I think cells are.
The most basic ingredients: water glass-
Sodium water-
Not a lot.
Aluminum and Aluminum (NaCl)
BoraxEpsom salt basic construction process :(
Recommended aluminum tube variants)1.
Paint aluminum alloy surface "inside" water glass (Sodium water).
It reacts to form a white gel and dark gel.
During this reaction, it produces hydrogen and heats up. . so be careful. 2.
You can put a paper splitter on this, and wave paper, and let it sit 24-48 hours3.
Mix the slurry of urea, salt, borax and epsom in equal parts.
You can also add a small amount of water cups to relax it. 4.
Lay the mixture on the paper separator.
Insert/cover with graphite electrode.
You can try copper too, but I haven't tried it yet.
Your voltage may be slightly lower. 25v6.
The initial voltage of the battery should be around 1. 3-1. 4v -
I'm not 100% sure why. . .
But this gives you a clue. 7. charge >3.
5 v, discharge through white LED.
High Voltage (4v -10v)
But it's bad news that chlorine will be produced.
As far as I know it doesn't seem to affect the battery in the end.
It may bubble up with the water of the dissolved AlCl.
Not good for your contact or intake. 8.
Occasionally let it sit for one night for free. 9. repeat 6/7 -
The battery will improve slowly. 10.
It can be smelted into aluminum when you want to recycle the battery. .
You may want to add alkali to deactivate any salt in the electrolyte. 11.
The top 10 or so charges may be a bit disappointing.
Stick to it and you will see it improve gradually.
My work theory: 1. Waterglass (Sodium water)
Reaction with aluminum (
Silicon aluminum-
Relatives of clay).
This is "white gel" 2.
Sodium "free" will react with water to form an alkali (NaOH). 3.
Reaction of alkali and aluminum to form aluminum hydroxide (and hydrogen)4. The borax (
Sodium 4)and Salt (NaCL)
There are already sodium ions, so don't react.
Because magnesium is more lively than aluminum, I added magnesium sulfate, which I believe may help to keep the electrolyte.
May not be needed.
The rechargeable battery turns nac1 into sodium hydroxide and chlorine. 7.
Chlorine reacts with AlOH and Al to form alcl8.
Urea is then used as our electrolyte, which helps AlCl as a deep co-crystalline solvent. 9.
Aluminum ions are inserted in graphite, but will be re-bonded with silicon aluminum during discharge.
I believe that silicon aluminum and sodium silicate are the "carousel" that led to the success of this process, and as we enter the water in the mixture less and less, find the perfect balance to make the battery work well. 11.
I'm not sure if I need borax and epsom but in my experience they make the battery work better. Waterglass -
Sodium water-
It can be made of silica gel and sodium hydroxide. Aluminum -
The thicker the better so that we can keep a good balance.
Foil may need to be "added" before the reaction stops ".
Silicon aluminum-
Reaction products of water glass and aluminum. . .
Speed up the whole process and paint your aluminum with the silicate that has already reacted to reduce the adjustment time.
So beautiful blue
Aluminum chloride Ash (AlCl)-
The reaction product of the salt and aluminum electrode after the reaction.
Another way to speed up. Urea -
Melting ice is a good source.
I'm sure you can think of someone else.
Helps to form an ionic liquid electrolyte with AlClSalt (NaCl)-Table salt.
I haven't tried iodine. .
But I have thought that the potential may discharge iodine. Borax -
Wash clothes.
I think it may be a flux in the electrolyte. Epsom salt -
Not 100% sure, but it seems helpful that both of my batteries use it.
If you use aluminum foil on the electrode, you need to prepare a thin film in advance
React some aluminum and water glass before spreading
Or, the reaction is likely to be just eating your tin paper.
It may take 5 foil to fully react with the Cup.
For this thick piece of aluminum (
Or thick aluminum pipe)
Must be the way to go
They are of sufficient quality to withstand corrosion but will not have any problems.
For a flat battery, I put a piece of paper on it, soak some electrolyte and then act as a separator.
It's not necessary in the tube.
Because the electrolyte takes up extra space.
Also, I added some wax paper for contact and pressed the battery for 48 hours until the battery reaction was complete.
After 48 hours, it was very hard and formed Al-Si even on the edge.
You can see how it goes through the aluminum foil layer. . .
So I added two more layers as extra anode material.
I glued the edges with tape to help collect the current and protect my output.
Then paint with my electrolyte.
In the last picture, you can see that the edge of the packaging tape resists the liquid.
It's definitely not easy in America.
I have to order twice from China.
You can try the copper sheet, or try to make your own copper sheet with graphite by mixing the polyurethane with graphite, activating the carbon and applying the copper sheet.
For tubes, use graphite rods.
It can be harvested from old alkaline batteries, or it can be purchased directly. I got 10 12-
An inch graphite/carbon rod for about $10 online.
The advantage of flat batteries is that extra layers can be made to surround graphite (cathode +)
More layers of capacity.
Here you can continue to paint, press and increase the layers in the battery to get a larger capacity.
The same process is just a coarse aluminum tube and a graphite rod.
My best phone so far.
When the charge is over, it bubbles, so when you build it, leave a few inches of "top space" inside ".
I haven't tried making copper electrodes but I think you can only get 2.
The community with 25 v is still good.
In addition, copper silicate is a very beautiful blue color.
When mixed with a small amount of polyurethane and glued to a copper sheet, graphene oxide, graphite and activated carbon are all possible electrode materials.
I'm also experimenting with a geological polymer.
Based on the electrode, but may be released later.
The battery will be on display. 3-1.
4 volts when originally built.
Adjust the charge/discharge cycle that needs to be repeated.
Run up, run down.
It will start showing some capacity after 10-
15 charge/discharge cycles.
My charging voltage is not 100% but I believe it is between 3 and 3. 5 v -my guess is 3. 25 or so.
I'm still working on these reactions. .
From experience, it's just at 2. 75 or 2.
8 v doesn't seem to make us much taller than 2.
5 v "steady state" I recommend a Joules thief or a 100Ohm resistor for discharge.
I prefer Jiao er thief (Boost converter)
Since it has a white LED, at least some "works" that I can watch are provided ".
It tends to discharge to 2.
5 v overnight, this is something I am still working on, but for an original environment, especially for the Joules thief, we will abuse it as we wish --
The goal is bright and deep emissions do not seem to be a huge problem. Perhaps 2.
5 v is actually where the battery wants to live in its daily use. . .
Only time will tell us when we continue to try.
It has a strong arc around 1. 9-1.
7 v, but I don't know if we have to have full 2.
8 v charging voltage is OK
The battery does not handle the high current well, which is why 100 ohms is a bit high drain for it. 1kOhm (about 2 mA)
It is a perfect drainage system for it.
By using two batteries in parallel, you can easily light up a highlight LED all night long.
The internal resistance may be a problem with the electrolyte, or I should mix the aluminum powder and graphite with the anode (-)
, Or manganese dioxide in the cathode (+)-
But that puts me outside of the parameters of the "garbage battery" and some preliminary experiments on the copper cathode look promising.
Although the voltage may eventually be lower, the formation of copper silicate seems to result in a very strong battery.
I don't know if the liquid electrolyte is really necessary, but I used it (
Paint the aluminum to cure/dry, drop the new silicon aluminum on the dry cake, then lay a piece of copper on it, charge).
So maybe a simple copper/silicon/aluminum "solid" battery is possible.
It seems to show a wonderful 1. 7-1. 5v chemistry -
In the absence of a separator, only Al Silicate and Cu silicate, it is able to charge quickly at a higher voltage and has a good 15 mA discharge in nearly an hour.
This could actually be the next stage in the development of this battery. . .
Lower voltage but more durable.