diy solar li ion/ lipo battery charger - lithium ion polymer battery

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Imagine that you are a gadget enthusiast, amateur, tinkerer or RC enthusiast and you will go camping or outings.
Your smartphone/MP3 player is running out of battery and you take an RC four helicopter but can't fly for a long time.
So you definitely need a good charger to charge the battery. Am I right ?
But where can you get the power in that place?
Don't worry, this structure is the solution to all problems.
You can find all my projects on the following website: Ion (Li Ion)
Lithium polymer (LiPo)
The battery is a rechargeable battery that provides high energy density and various shapes and sizes.
Due to its light weight and compact size, it is widely used in various portable devices/gadgets such as smartphones, tablets, MP3, radios, etc. Controlled (RC)
Toys, flash lights, etc.
I can assume that in daily life we use at least one gadget/device powered by the li ion/lipo battery.
The main drawback of this type of battery is that they are very sensitive and any errors that deal with them can cause an explosion.
A special charging algorithm is required for LiPo battery charging.
Therefore, charging properly with a charger specially designed for lithium chemistry is crucial to the life of the battery pack and, of course, to your safety.
In this note I will show you how to make a cheap and powerful solar Li Ion/Lipo battery charger.
Can you charge it:
LiCoO2 chemistry)and IMR (
Chemistry)battery type.
It supports various battery sizes (
26. 0,25500, 18. 0,18500, 17670,17500 and many smaller sizes)
, Just choose the right battery seat according to the battery size.
I did it with 18650 and Lipo batteries.
Note: you can charge 3.
7 V Li ion or LiPo cells. PARTS: 1. TP4056 Module (Amazon )2. Solar Panel (Amazon )3.
10 k potentiometer (Amazon )4. 1. 2k resistor5. Volt-Amp Meter (Amazon )6.
Battery stand 18650 (Amazon )7.
USB boost converter (eBay )8.
DC jack for men and women (eBay and eBay )9. Diode (IN4007 )10. Switch (eBay )11. Enclosure12. Wires (Amazon )TOOLS :1. Soldering iron (Amazon )2.
Wire cutting machine/stripping device (Amazon )3.
Hobby knife/Xacto knife (Amazon )4. Glue Gun (Amazon )
The charger is made using the most popular IC tp4056.
TP4056 IC is a complete constant current/constant-
Voltage linear charger for single-cell lithium
Ion/lithium polymer (LiIon/LiPo)batteries. Its SOP-
The TP4056 package and the small number of external components are ideal for portable applications.
Don't worry if you are afraid of SMD welding.
We are very lucky to be able to easily get the ready-made TP4056 module on eBay for a very low price.
The TP4056 can work in USB and wall adapters.
Other features include a current monitor, under-voltage locking, automatic charging, and two status pins to indicate the presence of charge termination and input voltage.
The key is that you can adjust the charging current to 1000 mA.
If you look closely at schematic a 1. 2K resistor (R_PROG)
Is connected to the pin-
2 TP4056 IC.
The charging current can be changed by changing this resistance value.
The default resistor used in the module is 1.
Set 2 k with charging current of 1000 mA.
First locate the position of the resistance Rprog (1K2).
For easy identification, I focused on it in the picture above.
Then use the soldering iron to carefully remove it from the top of the PCB.
Welding two small lines (
Red and black wires in the picture)
Pad from Rprog (
Deleted in the previous step).
Now we have to connect a variable resistor network to control the charging current.
The variable resistance network is composed of a 1.
2 k resistance and 10 k potentiometer.
Weld one leg of 1.
2 k resistance to the middle pin of the potentiometer and other legs to the red line.
The black wire is then welded to another pin of the potentiometer.
Note: the choice of the two pins of the potentiometer is that turning the knob clockwise reduces the resistance value.
You can do this with a multimeter.
A variable resistor is now attached to replace the original Rprog smd resistor.
Weld two wires to the input of the boost converter (
Red to IN, White to IN-).
For the convenience of polarity identification, the red and black wires are a better choice.
But I used the red and white wires when doing this project because I don't have the black ones in stock.
Join the red wire from voltamp meter (thick red )
Battery stand and boost converter.
Join the black line from voltamp meter (thick black)
White wire for boost converter.
Connection voltage-
AMP m blue line and battery holders black line.
Now weld the red joint (node )
Bats and black joints (node )to the BAT -
Model of TP4056 charging board.
Note: Later I installed a switch to operate the boost converter.
Just cut the red line of the boost converter in the middle and then weld the switch.
The input power supply of the TP4056 charging board can be provided directly to the mini USB port through the USB cable.
But we need to charge with solar panels.
Therefore, a DC jack is connected when entering.
Welding two wires first (red and white )to the DC jack.
Then weld the Red Line to IN and the white line to IN-respectively.
Power required for voltage
The amplifier meter is output from the boost converter (5V)
On the back of the boost converter, you will see 4 welding points for the USB port.
We just need two. 5V and Gnd ).
I marked 5 v and Gnd-. Welding voltage-
Amp M fine red line to the plus sign (+)
And thin black line to negative (-).
Note: According to the seller's instructions on TP4056, the anpei meter can only be connected to the 5 v input of the module.
But I answered the phone outside.
I need some advice and feedback on the connection.
After the circuit is made, we need to test it.
Insert a Li of 18650-
Ion battery on battery stand.
Now you will see the battery voltage and charging current on the meter display.
Slowly rotate the potentiometer knob to adjust the charging current.
Now the circuit works fine so we can make a proper case for this.
Measure the dimensions of all components with a cursor clamp.
Mark the fence.
Then cut out the marked part with a hobby knife or Dremel.
Through drilling.
Insert all components one by one into the right place.
Then apply hot glue around it.
To fix the boost converter, I placed small plastic under it.
It gives it more power.
To make the enclosure look attractive, I posted yellow paper around.
The paper tape is cut according to the size of the height of the shell.
Then the rectangular part is cropped according to the profile size of the component.
I do this with the Exacto knife.
After that, apply glue on the back of the paper and stick it carefully to the shell.
Finally, I stuck a rectangular piece of paper to the top of the shell.
The final result is very good, I am very satisfied with this small budget.
Connect the male DC Jack to the wire.
The red line is the positive line and the black line is the negative line.
Welding diode (IN4007)
Front terminal of solar panel.
The negative pole of the diode is then welded to the red line.
Weld the black wire to the negative pole of the solar panel.
After making the case, I tested all the features.
First, I check the charge through the solar panel and then check the charge through the USB cable.
The operation switch checks the output.
The boost converter blue light turns on when the switch is on.
I plugged in the charger doctor to check the output voltage.
It shows about 4. 97V .
Move the knob slowly to change the charging current.
It is displayed in Volt-Amp meter.
Plug the gadget into the USB port now (Boost converter).
I tested it by plugging in the Nexus 7 tablet.
It can be used for various other purposes.
When I go for an outing, I use my Xiaomi USB LED lighting to stay calm with a USB fan.
Hope my tutorial is helpful.
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