diy electric bike conversion - lifepo4 battery 48v

Here's how I can convert my bike to an electric bike using the electric bike kit.
Only one electric bike conversion is shown here.
Bicycles are old daily rides that require work and new paint, so this is an opportunity to fix them and install the kit at the same time.
Before you start the conversion, decide what you want to use as a donation bike, what kind of ride you want to do, the kit you want, and finally the cost.
You may be tempted to buy the cheapest kit, which may work, but it's better to try and figure out what you want the final conversion to do.
If you need help in deciding the size of the motor and battery pack to use, go to: Learn more about how much power you need.
It would be interesting if nothing else.
Here are the kits used in the conversion.
You have a rear wheel motor, controller, throttle operated by thumb, on/off switch, brake lever with brake switch (not used)
And control the battery of the cable.
The motor in this kit is a 500 W continuous, 1200 W peak power deceleration motor, especially suitable for hilly areas.
The motor requires a 22 Am p continuous controller.
There is a brake switch on the brake lever.
Since the throttle is operated by the thumb, it does not seem necessary to use the cut off switch and additional wires.
This was proved later.
If you need to stop, you just let go of the thumb throttle and the motor will stop.
Very intuitive.
The kit also comes with a nylon battery bag.
These bags are well made, but the battery instructions warn against using these bags! Go figure.
Kit cost: $350 controller: $50 additional cost for conversion including Kit, battery and parts is about $950. A solid frame is needed for donating bicycles.
It is said that cheap bicycles can make good electric bicycle frames.
It may be true from a car's point of view, but maybe not a good idea if you also want to ride a bike.
I chose to use the old mountain bike frame.
They are steel, heavy and strong, and a good bike with good rolling.
There is a gap in the paint on the frame and it doesn't look very good.
To improve the frame, they are stripped off most of the parts, polished, masked and painted.
It took about a day and the price of paint spray cans was about $10.
The resulting paint looks good but not as durable as the original factory paint.
If it matches the spray, it can be painted close to the original paint color. a little scratch is not easy to notice and can be moistened quickly.
In addition to the gasket, it is very simple to install the rear wheel motor, which proves to be some work.
The motor and wheels look very high quality, durable and well constructed.
However, they are about 1 inch wider than the width of the old rear wheels and bike frames falling off.
I just took the frame down and put it on the ground and pulled it a little.
This may not be the best way but it works.
Just be careful how far you pull, because the frame will be much easier to bend than you think, and not very easy to get back to where it was.
The kit is equipped with only one fat aluminum gasket.
It turns out that an extra 5 shims are required to properly focus the wheels on the frame and remove the gears from the frame.
If there is no vibration, the Gear will hit the frame.
To see more information about the process, go to: The next thing to do is install the switch.
It's easy if you have old handle handles, except to remove them.
One trick to quite easily remove the old handle is to pick up the screwdriver to pry the handle open and then pour some soapy water into the opening.
Swing Left and Right Grip (
You may need a pair of pliers or vise clips)
Until they are scattered, pour more water and so on.
Before you remove your old shifter, see where the switch will be installed.
The thumb throttle lever on the kit described here is a bit short, so you want to be as close as possible to the gear/brake lever.
The on/off switch can be easily installed on the other side.
After installing the switch, carefully install the wire back to the motor area.
Make sure to leave a little slack around the headset/head tube of the bike.
This is to allow the handlebars to rotate freely from one side to the other.
Connect the wire to the frame using zip
Tie that comes with the kit or buy some at Home Depot.
The next thing to do is decide what kind of battery box you want, measure your battery and controller, select the box, drill some holes, cut a wire opening and install the box. 1.
Decide a box.
This kit is powered by a 36 v 15AH lithium ion battery.
Instructions for the battery say do not drop, Dent or otherwise damage the battery. . .
In other words, protect it.
I decided to buy a hard plastic box but changed to metal later.
The instructions also suggest filling the battery with foam. 2.
Carefully measure how many rooms you need.
The box used here is made by Buddy, 12-3/4" x 8-3/8" x 6-1/2".
Two of them were delivered from Amazon for about $41.
They have locks that are at least good for some safety.
Below is the extra weight of the metal. 3.
We installed it on the rear bike rack.
I remove the racks from the bike, turn them upside down, mark the holes, and cross the racks (s)as needed.
Then bolts were inserted.
One thing to do here is put some glue (I use Goop)
Because your bolts will loose under vibration. 4.
A slot for wire cutting.
Remember the wires you carefully put on the back?
A slot about 1 inch deep and 1/2 wide for wire cutting.
I cut this slot at the top of the box with angle grinder and mototool.
The covers can still close the wires and they can reach the controller through the top of the battery. 5.
Drill controller holes.
Measure and cut the 2 holes of the controller, as installed on the rack.
Be careful not to drill the controller!
Connect the box with foam or other insulator of your choice.
We just had some old foam cushions.
It did a good filling.
The top of the box is glued to make it easy to open the box to charge.
The bottom line here is to make sure the battery is filled, there is room for wiring, and in the case of a metal box, you want to make sure that there is no bare wire/connection that can be short to the box.
Please note the position of the controller at the back and the battery at the front.
This is the circuit board on the back end in the case of a quick stop (
Closest to the controller)
Will suffer the least.
It's hard to say, but there are 4 bubbles (compressed)
Under that battery.
Well, this is the beginning of fun!
After installing the kit, be sure to do road testing.
The gear on the new dry wheel may need to be adjusted as well as the rear brake.
After several rides, we were pleased to find that even though the weight of the electric bike was nearly 60 lbs, the pedals and the use of power were easy.
The more you help with the pedal, the greater the range.
Anyway, the conversion so far is great!