diy capacitive discharge 18650 spot battery welder #6 - high drain battery

This is the sixth battery label welder I have created so far.
I 've been wanting to do one of these since my first MOT welder, and I'm glad I did!
I decided to do this with a capacitor.
How does ProTip make a simple battery tag welder from an audio capacitor (. 6F and up)
This is also one of my favorite 7.
The welds it produces are not burned and the labels are almost perfect when done.
There was almost no sound during the fire.
Great 3 pound welder!
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Thank you for your support!
For any building I like to make sure I list all the parts that the building may need to make sure there are no defects.
It would be very frustrating to put everything together and find a part of it defective.
I make sure to test the KP100A, the buck converter, the boost converter, and the 2F capacitor (.
Actual 6F or 600,000 uF).
When I get these parts from eBay or other stores, I usually test them.
Most of the items I purchased for this building came from eBay.
I found the APC UPS case at the local Goodwill, completed about $5 and used a 12 v sealed lead-acid battery 7 that was actually good. 4Ah.
During my inspection, I noticed the cable I was planning to use, and the capacitor was not advertised.
They claim it's gauge 4, but you can see clearly that it's actually gauge 8.
At first I thought it might be a problem, but I noticed that in other videos, 8 posters were used for most of them.
I later found out that the capacitor in the same package is just.
6F instead of the second floor on the advertisement.
Instead of showing a little surprise when I contacted the seller, they sold it fairly and gave me a rebate.
All other well tested parts and components.
Here are the sections I use in this release.
Please leave me a message if you need a link to these sections.
Boss CPBL2 2 Farad Car digital voltage capacitor power supply audio Cap 4 Ga Amp KitDC-
DC converter step-down regulator 5 v-30V To 0. 8-29V (XL4015)
Current/voltage constant power supply module 5a, LED ammeter voltmeter display 250 w DC step-
Boost converter constant current power supply LED driver 10-
50VKP100A 1600 V 100A phase thyristor Silicon control SCR ring rocker switch 12 v w/LED light point Auto rv boat on mini toggle 6A/125 V 3Pin MTS102 EC-
25106 specifications solid bare copper wire 50 w 6Ohm LED load resistance sschottky barrier diode 15Amp (
Low voltage loss)
10A 250 V panel mount chassis fuse seat socket base 2 x EBL 3. 7V 3000mA (
Actually 2300. 18650 Li-ion Lithium-
High drain welding 24-ion rechargeable battery6040-
0027 60/40 station 0. 031Gold High-
Heat resistant Kapton tape pi BGAKester 951 and 186 liquid flow.
Shrink tube rain clip/OFF/ON for 3 positions SPDT round boat rocker switch 10A/125 V 6A/250V5. 5/2. 5 (5. 5mm OD 2. 1mm ID)
DC metal barrel jack panel bracket x 2M5 bolts and nuts connect 12 position barrier junction box 10A-
100 AMis screws were rescued from other projects.
Gorilla strong glue, wood putty and wood glue from the local hardware store have prepared 500 w apc ups for caseI, which is not the best choice for others to write a schematic or instructions.
But it serves me.
I found that when I write an article, 9 out of 10 times, I will eventually modify it as I continue to write.
But in the end, I tried to save them all in case I had to fix them later.
When you decide to connect everything, making a schematic will make sure there is no problem.
This is also when I decided that the UPS case would run perfectly because I saw a case in another Youtube video.
I also like the layout.
This usually changes at the end, but it still gives me something when I decide to drill.
I also like to use chart paper in all my schematic.
I can use accurate measurements about graphic paper (or close to)
When I write everything out
During the schematic and building ideas, I was inspired by 3 other Youtube posters.
"Swipemagnetron, Workbench and build yourdreams ".
Make sure to look them up on YouTube and they also have very detailed videos on Tab welders (Capacitor).
When you build something like this, you can't be 100% sure if it's right or not until you put all the parts where they might be right.
I'm not 100% sure of the term or wording, but I like to call it "dry"Fit. (
I used to work on paint and body. . ).
It's good to make sure that nothing can get in the way of any other part or line.
With this structure, I noticed that the capacitor is a bit large for the housing, and I may need to put a larger portion of the SCR on the outside of the housing.
I will use a hole saw to cut a 3 "round hole on the back of the case to install the capacitor.
This should also let me know if it gets hot during welding.
I also found that the buck converter would be perfect for the position I planned on my face.
All the other smaller parts seem to work where I might place them. After the dry-
Right, I make sure to measure the right place for each part with a ruler.
I also used a 3 hole saw to cut the back plate that the capacitor would hang.
I like to use step bit when cutting these holes.
After I measure and center the area I need to drill.
I took a drill bit of 1/16 and drilled a start hole.
Followed by 1/8 drill bits.
Then I finished it with step bit.
I will also wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit to mark the size of the desired hole.
This ensures that I don't go deep when I clean them up.
I also need to use my "DIY Mini Dremel" to clean up any partitions that might get in the way of the inside of my case.
I can get most of it with a needle and nose clamp.
After I drill every hole, I will do it-
Install the part to make sure it fits.
I then delete and save the build.
I added black tape to the glass and I decided to also add a layer of black carbon fiber film wrap vinyl to hide the wording on my face.
Before I start building, I try to make sure the case is 100% ready.
I usually don't prepare the assembly before assembly, but this one, I want to use the screw terminal barrier connector on all connections.
This is to help me, it is a pain to put this case back together.
I would also like to choose not to weld if I need to replace any DC converter quickly.
I also thought that since the parts are on the table, I can set the voltage and amplifier as needed.
I set the buck converter to 16 v and 3.
2 amps, I set the boost converter to 25 volts (
Changed to 30 V later)Amps full open.
If I need a higher voltage on the buck converter, I drill two small holes at the top of the case to adjust as needed.
I also added the connector on the 50 w 6Ohm LED load resistor as I decided to do so and I also welded and tin on/off/on Switch, power switch for LED, both the main power supply and the DC Jack have led on/off rocker.
With the on/off rocker, there is a tiny LED.
This LED is usually used for 12 v systems.
So I just added a resistance of 1 k ohm 1/4 W to the negative pole (in)side(3rd gold pin).
This ensures that I can use it at a higher voltage.
Open and close in front of the Lord (on/off/on)
, Intermediate pin to capacitor.
One side is the 6ohm 50 w resistor and the other side is (power out)
Buck converter.
This is the Schottky barrier diode I decided to add 15 amps (
Low voltage loss).
This protects the buck converter from any feedback or current.
The rest of the switches and DC jacks are very basic.
I know I need to make a battery pack for SCR and small voltmeter (
Capacitor voltage).
Using SCR, I think the resistance of 53 Ohm 1/4 W should keep the amps below 150 mA and at 4. 2-3. 7V.
So I decided to place 2 in parallel because I saw a video.
Use this instead of using a label welder or welding a battery.
I used some old battery stand.
I think it would be great if I ended up having to replace them.
So put the 2 together, fix it in place with hot glue, then I weld the wires together and screw them together as barrier blocks.
Then, after I added EBL 18650 s, I added the blue shrink wrap.
Put the lead in the barrier block and the bag is ready.
This is also a good time to test the TP4056 I will use to charge.
Starting with the buck converter, I found some pieces of plexiglass and wood.
I just measured where to drill the screw and applied the bracket to the strong glue.
After I tighten the screws, the buck converter remains stable.
I just use the adhesive on the small led to fix it.
The rest is mostly broken on the panel mount rocker switch and screwed into other smaller parts.
At the last minute, I decided to add a panel to install the fuse (10amp).
Put a little hot glue on everything and it shouldn't move a little.
Keeping the schematic close, I started to combine the wires according to the page.
I don't worry about cleaning everything up.
I will do this once I feel I have tested this and it has been working for months without any problems.
I added a few zippers.
Connect them together.
I added the capacitor and the line as specified in the schematic diagram and it fits my mind.
Pass the KP100A through the hole (negative side)
And tighten with an Allen wrench, the same is true on the other side of the front lead.
The last part is the boost converter connected to the buck converter and the back power switch.
Decided that this would be a good time to test.
I turned the power on.
Everything is as expected.
There are a few drops of hot glue here and there to fix the wires and install the boost converter.
I'm going to sort this case out.
With a little twist, I can put it together and screw it in the back that holds it.
Place the battery on the small stand at the bottom and snap it in place.
Everything seems to be going well.
Quick note: not sure if you watch the video or notice the multimeter.
Ensure continuous testing continuity.
This will also ensure that you do not miss any connection.
Before I add a lead, I want to make sure it works fine with a quick checklist.
When I turn on the power, the light on the back seems to be working.
Use my small desktop power supply.
I have all the amplifiers on (5amps max)and 21V.
I plan to use Dell 19. 4V 3.
33 amp laptop adapter, but for now, I can use the desktop power supply.
In front, I turned over (on)
The small switch on the left turns on the smaller LED, which gives me the capacitor voltage.
Turn on the switch on the back and the buck converter lights up.
I switched on/off/on to "off" so it did nothing.
I press the switch (single line)
The capacitor starts charging.
After the buck converter has a red light on, the Cap voltmeter is displayed as 15. 8V. (.
2 has passed the diode)
Perfect charging.
But it took 30 seconds to charge. That was great!
In the case of 3 amps, this should be correct for the second floor.
Until I realized that the amplifier was turned down to 1A on the desktop power supply.
Through more tests, I found that the hat is just. 6F at best.
But it should still work.
The only problem with the little hat.
I had to wait longer between welds or it might overheat.
With a bigger cap, you have more ways to lead.
I plan to buy a bigger one in the future.
The last part I need to check is emissions.
I turned everything off and the hat was charged.
Flip the front switch up (2 lines)
It began to drain quickly.
The resistance of 6 ohm 50 W is perfect for this situation.
Everything, (2F to . 6F)
The test result of the capacitor is correct.
It looks like my project is almost finished.
Finally, to summarize this build, I used a larger terminal block (
Copper inside)
And No. 6 solid copper, I sharpened it with the "DIY Mini Dremel" of the electrode.
Then I stuck them together with Kapton tape and shrink wrap.
Kapton tapes are very effective in this regard.
The switch or trigger will only be used before I get the pedal from TEMco.
This is a very interesting building and the welds it produces are fantastic.
Unfortunately, I don't have a video or picture of welding, but plan to make a video later when comparing all my welders, and I really think this video will dominate.
I leave the electrodes longer so that I can apply perfect pressure while welding.
In my research, it seems to be a determinant of your weld.
In less than 2 welds, my pressure is reduced.
I may add rubber handles to these things later, but they are great.
I believe there will be more patching.
As soon as my pedal got here, it was easier to weld.
This tends to get a little warm if you don't wait for the right soldering time.
But it usually takes a few before this happens.
I am very satisfied with this welder and I have 7 to compare.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
I usually answer very quickly.
Thanks for reading my guide and don't forget to vote.
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My next note is a very simple welder I made in less than a few hours (
Of course, after the case is dried or solidified within 48 hours. . LOL)